Part 2: South America
LFD 48

Dee and Magellanic penguin, Punta Tombo, Argentina
“ plan involved...joining friend and fellow penguin researcher, Professor Dee Boersma, on a research expedition to Argentina.”

LFD 49

Magellanic penguins, Punta Tombo, Argentina
“We arrived at Punta Tombo, a wildlife reserve that is primarily known as the breeding ground for penguins.”

LFD 50

Touring Club, Trelew, Argentina
“...a hotel of decayed grandeur with the musty air of a place that had shut its doors 70 years ago with all the clients and workers locked inside, and who had gone on aging together...”

LFD 40

Museo PaleontoloĢgico Egidio Feruglio, Trelew
“Here evolution really was set before your eyes...I had come to the right place.”

LFD 42

Pianitzkysaurus, Trelew, Argentina
“...a reconstruction of a much older meat-eater with a name designed to foil even the most rabid of dinosaur-loving children...”

LFD 41

Fororraco, Trelew, Argentina
“...a remarkable flightless bird, a Fororraco: about two metres high, thick set and with a skull that resembled nothing so much as the pincers of a crane used to crush cars.”

LFD 45

Avis rental car, Peninsula Valdes, Argentina
“Was there anything in those myriad papers that Avis had made me sign that said I would be responsible for cleaning?”

LFD 43

Elephant seal, Punta Delgado, Argentina
“...the flipper looked like nothing less than the forelimb of a bear or that of a cow; more elephant than seal, certainly more elephant than fish.”

LFD 44

Ground-dwelling owl, Punta Delgado, Argentina
“If you could have a bear that lives like a fish, why not an owl that lives like a rabbit?”

LFD 46

Southern right whale, Puerto Pirámides, Argentina
“There are, of course, rules about how close boats can approach the whales...But these are large-brained curious creatures, used to going where they please...”

LFD 47

Whale fluke, Puerto Pirámides, Argentina
“I see the whale as providing evidence for evolution precisely because of the analogous changes wrought upon its hippo-like ancestors to turn it back into something that resembled a fish...”

LFD 38

Beagle Channel view, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
“...the channel in Tierra del Fuego discovered by FitzRoy on his previous expedition and named after the little ship.”

LFD 36

Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
“My wife and I took a day-trip up the Beagle Channel in a boat. The wind threw long trails of spume every time the boat hit the crest of a wave.”

LFD 37

Gentoo Penguins, Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego
“At first sleeting, and then snowing heavily. Even the odd Gentoo Penguin brave enough to walk along the beach looked miserable.”

LFD 39

Perito Moreno Glacier, near El Calafate, Argentina
“This was Nature at its most mind-boggling. This was a force that didn’t just shape rocks; it broke them.”

LFD 25

Monasterio de San Francisco, Lima, Peru
“Out on the streets of Lima, tanks and armed policemen abounded, but the square with the yellow and white church of the Monasterio de San Francisco was left to the pigeons and the people...”

LFD 23

Last Supper, Monasterio de San Francisco, Lima
“But this was the thing, the mind-boggling, fascinating thing from my perspective: for his last meal, Christ and his disciples are depicted as eating guinea pig, the local Peruvian delicacy.”

LFD 24

Catacombs, Monasterio de San Francisco, Lima
“Most bizarrely, though, when laying out the skulls and femurs, the conservationists (and one has to use this term loosely) decided to get creative and make patterns out of the bones...”

LFD 26

Madonna, Monasterio de San Francisco, Lima
“Religious beliefs have to be relevant to the people. A Christ eating chateaubriand and a Mary dressed in Yves St Laurent may not work in Peru, but it might in Paris, say.”

LFD 22

La Catedral de Lima, Peru
“...just to the right of the main door is a chapel festooned in mosaics and housing a coffin. The elaborate coffin, topped by a bronze lion, contains the remains of Francisco Pizarro...”

LFD 35

Mother and Child, Peru
“Many of the locals wear traditional garb, with brilliantly coloured shawls...and, most incongruously, hats that resemble the bowler hats of some London banker.”

LFD 27

Daewoo taxi, outside Cuzco, Peru
“ it would transpire, whatever they were paying the driver was not enough. The damage the little car would endure had to have been much higher.”

LFD 28

Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
“We drove by a colourful couple with a couple of llamas, one white the other brown, pulling an even more colourful and elaborately attired carriage.”

LFD 29

Checkpoint, start of Inca Trail, Peru
“It was all we could do to stop leaping up and shouting when we stepped off the bridge and onto the trail proper...the exuberance of youth.”

LFD 30

Mt Veronica, Inca Trail, Peru
“Behind us, the pointed Mount Veronica watched over us as we climbed gentle valleys while the other mountains seemed to close in around us: we were being sucked into a vertical world...”

LFD 31

'Anita' and Porter, Inca Trail
“Later she would say that it was the best $15 we ever spent.”

LFD 32

Dead Woman's Pass, Inca Trail
“She was shivering, dizzy, and nauseous: she was suffering symptoms of altitude sickness.”

LFD 33

Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
“...the magic of that view at dawn from Intipunku (the Sun Gate), where the sun first rises through a notch in the hillside and lights up the stone buildings that make up Machu Picchu.”

LFD 34

Temple of the Condor, Machu Picchu
“That grey slab, that head of the condor, it turns out was nothing less than a sacrificial altar...And I had to think that had I been a virgin, I would have found Christianity somewhat more attractive.”

© Lloyd Spencer Davis Contact